NY Fashion Week was all a buzz this season with quite a few designers making their first serious attempt at showing “See-now, Buy-now, Wear-now collections, above Ralph Lauren was one that did it very well with his September Collection. photo by Ralph Lauren
So another NY Fashion Week has come and gone and quite a tumultuous time it was. I watched it from home, due to a conflict, but still felt very much connected through live streaming and reading constantly from every media connection of the many changes that were taking place. Many designers chose not to show in formal runways, opting for showroom appearances only or to show to a much smaller, selective audience. Others such as Tommy Hilfiger put on major extravaganzas that were even open to the public with pop-up shops to buy what you just saw on the runway. Much more attention was given to ‘influencers’ who designers dressed and ensured photo ops for to publicize their collections and appeal to the newest attractions on mobile through an extensive use of social media. Another change on a very positive note was that many designers, taking their lead from society and other industries such as Hollywood, have gotten accolades for their obvious attempts to create more diversity on the runways, something that many have been criticized for lacking in recent years, addressing age (Rachel Comey), racial (Brandon Maxwell), and size (Christian Siriano).
It was quite a season of change and only the beginning. I am personally very interested and have read constantly what the key fashion insider publications have to say about it…..everyone from WWD, to Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Wall Street Journal and one of my favorite recaps on the current status was a joint effort by the editors of Fashionista, one of my favorite reads. Below I have narrowed my observation to the hottest topic of the week, the fashion calendar and just what designers were showing….Spring vs. Buy Now, Wear-Now Fall or a combo of both.
Changes at NY Fashion Week
After many seasons that I have been aware of, NY Designers have spoken of their unhappiness with the fashion calendar and in response to the fast world we live in where instant gratification is the name of the game, many NY Designers began what is their first attempt to respond to their audience and do things differently. It has become what many feel is a major shift in the fashion industry and is the beginning of a C-change that will result in viewing all or at least part of a designer collection in a totally different time frame. We have highlighted some of the key players below that gave us total BN/WN collections, however there are many that addressed capsule groups within their Spring collection showings, that were for immediate delivery such as Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenburg, Tibi, Proenza Schouler, Tory Burch, Kate Spade, Rag & Bone and many others.
Burberry
Burberry’s CEO and Creative Director, Christopher Bailey was one of the first major designers, along with Ford to announce in February 2016 that Burberry would be breaking the long established rules of the fashion cycle by showing in September 2016, a collection that was to be seen on the runway, available to buy and wear immediately. As a technology guy, that has been studying communication with the consumer for a decade, Bailey felt that once the live streaming had opened up access to shows that had previously only been available to buyers and the press, there would be interest in the availability of those styles as soon as possible. Hence, Mr. Bailey showed Fall styles on runway available in Fall for his latest collection.
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren showed his power in the industry by changing up his entire approach to NY Fashion Week this season. He first changed the time of his show which normally leads off the final day to an evening presentation. He moved the venue to his very own amazing Madison Avenue flagship and was able to convince the city of New York to close that section of Madison Avenue off for him for a show which he orchestrated outside of the RL Mansion, literally on the street, to a smaller crowd of very high profile fashion elite and celebrity mix. The collection, which he has called the ‘September Collection’ was exclusively ‘buy-now, wear’ and was themed in a signature Ralph Lauren Western style. He treated all of his guests to a champagne reception inside the store after where they could have an enjoyable, leisure evening of sipping on champagne and shopping the collection they had just seen on the runway. It was quite an evening and one, Ralph is hopeful will be successful enough that he will plan to show Spring 2017 in February.
Tom Ford
Tom Ford, has clearly stepped up to the plate to show his very elite customers his newest collection now that they can also purchase and wear right now. He was one of the leaders of a small but growing group of designers that chose to launch a full-scale runway show of his signature luxe collection that would all be available for immediate purchase. Ford was quoted in a WWD article on these changes in the industry as saying, “The current way of showing a collection four months before it is available to customers is an antiquated idea and one that no longer makes sense.” Of course,being Tom Ford, who always does things right, he took over the now closed Four Seasons restaurant in NYC, invited most of the A-list celebrities and high profile fashion insiders that are all his clients and hosted them to a magnificent show, dinner that followed and to ensure that all knew he meant business, followed with special invite-only shopping events for his Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman’s best Tom Ford customers. Houston Galleria was a host of one of these events with great success. The collection of 40 pieces is available online at Tom Ford website and can be purchased right there as well.
Tommy Hilfiger
Tommy Hilfiger, a designer that has always been known for his creative sets and a master of theming his shows, has truly outdone himself this year. He created a carnival atmosphere along the pier at the South Street Seaport where he featured a 40 ft. ferris wheel and an old-time arcade. Many feel that this was to set the stage for the boldest move yet….first, his collaboration with super model, Gigi Hadid and her ‘Gigi for Tommy’ collection and also to introduce to all his first ‘Buy-Now, Wear Now’ collection. Editors, Buyers and the infamous Gigi Hadid girl squad (Taylor Swift, front row), rubbed elbows with over 2,000 fashion fans that were able to score tickets. Hadid who had been inspired by Tommy since her youngest age and many of her gal pals that were also TH regular fans, were able to shop in the pop-up shop on site, after the show. In addition to the new runway styles being made available for purchase, many retro Tommy styles from the past were also presented, making a total connection with millennial nostalgia….sounds pretty smart to me!
Rebecca Minkoff
Rebecca Minkoff, who last year was the first to broadcast in virtual reality, was not surprising to be the first to create a revolution within the fashion industry by announcing last Spring that she would be showing Spring in Spring for her consumer. This has become a passion of hers and her brother and CEO, Uri Minkoff, who feel that they have an advantage in that they are featuring a millennial designing for millennials. Through her social media connections with her consumer she understands the immediacy of what they want….if they see it, they want to know when they can have it! So, she was definitely back with a collection that featured all Fall wear now looks for her Fall 2016 runway show.
